A Transformative Wilderness: Exploring Theodore Roosevelt National Park
The name "national park" often conjures images of towering mountains, ancient forests, or sprawling canyons. But travel to western North Dakota, and you’ll find a park that offers something completely different: the stunning, rugged beauty of the Badlands, inextricably linked to the personal transformation and enduring legacy of one of America’s greatest environmentalists, Theodore Roosevelt.
Theodore Roosevelt National Park, the only American national park named for a single person, is a tribute not just to a president, but to the place that shaped him. It was here, in the late 19th century, that a young, frail, and grief-stricken New Yorker shed his political disappointments and personal tragedy to embrace the "strenuous life" of a rancher, hunter, and cowboy. He credited his time in the Badlands with forging the character and the conservation ethic that would define his presidency. “I never would have been President,” he once declared, “if it had not been for my experience in North Dakota.”
A Land of Separate Selves: The Park’s Three Units
Teddy Roosevelt National Park is divided into the South Unit, North Unit and Elk Horn Ranch. The entrance to the South Unit and Visitors Center is just off Interstate 94 near the town of Medora North Dakota. The Painted Canyon area, popular for hiking and camping, can be viewed from the scenic overlooks right off I-94 about 10 miles east of the entrance to the South Unit. There are several hiking trails that lead through the canyon offering scenic views of the colorful rock formations.
You may want to consider allowing a couple days at to see the entire park.
The North Unit entrance is 69 miles north of the South Unit, about a 1 hour and 10 minute drive on US Route 85.
The South Unit: Scenery and History at Your Fingertips
Spend time exploring the South Unit and the sites along the 36 mile loop scenic drive. There are numerous overlooks and trails along the way and be sure to be on the lookout for the abundant wildlife including Bison, Wild Horses, Prairie Dog Towns, Pronghorn Antelope, Mule Deer and more. Must-see viewpoints include the Painted Canyon Overlook, often the first stop for visitors, which provides a panoramic view of the brilliantly colored sedimentary layers. Further along the scenic drive, you can hike the short, rewarding Wind Canyon Trail for spectacular views of the Little Missouri River snaking through the bluffs, or climb Buck Hill for 360-degree vistas of the rolling terrain.
The North Unit: Solitude and Grandeur
Located about 80 miles north of the South Unit, the North Unit offers a more remote and dramatically different experience. Its 14-mile Scenic Drive ends at the breathtaking Oxbow Overlook, a magnificent panorama high above a sharp meander in the Little Missouri River. Here, the Badlands appear taller, the colors perhaps even more vibrant, and the sense of solitude is profound. Keep an eye out for the unique geological phenomenon of cannonball concretions, spherical rocks scattered along the slopes. The North Unit is also the best place in the park to spot the bighorn sheep that traverse the steep, rocky cliffs.
Teddy Roosevelt National Park is home to one of the largest and most accessible bison herds in the United States. The herd, managed as a wildlife population, typically has 750-1100 members. Bison were first introduced into the park in 1916 with 102 animals from Nebraska. The original members of the herd were part of last free-ranging bison herds from the 1800s. The majority of the herd resides in the South Unit with a smaller group in the North. Remember to be safe when observing the wildlife. Don’t get to close.
A Symphony of Wildlife
Theodore Roosevelt National Park is an open-air zoo of Great Plains fauna. Wildlife viewing is one of the park’s main attractions, and you’ll quickly realize that you are an observer in their domain.
The park’s ecosystem is dominated by the American Bison, which are often seen grazing near the park roads in both the North and South Units, frequently causing the famed "bison traffic jams." While a magnificent sight, visitors are constantly reminded to maintain a safe distance—at least 25 yards—as these are wild, powerful animals.
Other large mammals are also abundant. The feral horses—descendants of domestic stock and maintained as a cultural resource—roam the South Unit, adding an iconic Western feel to the landscape.
Elk and mule deer are common, particularly during the early morning and late evening hours. And of course, no visit is complete without a stop at a prairie dog town, where these endlessly entertaining rodents chatter and dart around their complex underground cities, often watched by predators like coyotes or badgers.
Roaming through the parks 70,466 acres is a population of 150-200 free-roaming mustangs that descended from horses brought to the area by Spanish explorers in the 16th century. These hardy animals have adapted to the park's rugged terrain and play a vital role in maintaining the ecosystem by grazing on vegetation and creating open spaces. The herd provides visitors with an opportunity to observe wild horses in their natural habitat, showcasing the park's commitment to preserving native wildlife. The horses tend to favor certain areas within the park with the larger concentrations often found in the South Unit. Try to visit in the early morning of late evening hours for the best chance to see these magnificent animals.
Theodore Roosevelt National Park, located in western North Dakota, offers a diverse range of natural and cultural attractions for visitors to enjoy. You can drive the scenic loop road to view the park's rugged badlands, colorful buttes, and abundant wildlife. Hiking trails lead to hidden canyons and panoramic vistas. The North Unit features the Little Missouri River and its cottonwood forests, as well as rolling prairies and buttes. Explore the park's history at the Maltese Cross Cabin, where Roosevelt once stayed, and learn about the park's geology and ecology at the visitor center. Wildlife viewing is excellent throughout the park, with opportunities to see bison, elk, deer, pronghorn, and a variety of bird species. Whether you're interested in hiking, wildlife watching, scenic drives, or history, Theodore Roosevelt National Park has something to offer everyone.